Mira had cooked a chicken the night before and had some left
over. He had offered me some the night before, but I had already told the two
apartments down the block that I would eat with them so I wasn’t able to take
him up on his offer. This time was a different story however, so I indulged. I
wouldn’t eat his food without him eating with me though, so we sat down
together and had a nice conversation over dinner.
Red had told me he would text me where they were going later,
but I know that when people say that, even if they really do intend to do so,
when they have a few drinks in them they can become forgetful. Wanting to go
out for a night with other people at least one night before classes start, I
get proactive and with Mira look up where the bar that Red had told me he would
go to: The Drunken Monkey.
The Drunken Monkey is an expat bar owned by five Americans
and which leads a bar crawl with regularity around Prague (I believe it’s at
least once a week). The bar is located up in Praha 1 and isn’t exactly walking
distance from our flat, nor have I really explored that area at this point in
the day time, so knowing my way around was always going to be tricky with my
sense of direction. As a responsible young man, I write out directions with
Mira’s help. As an irresponsible young man, I notice as I reach the metro
station near the flat and look for what my first stop is that I have l left the
directions sitting on my desk. Thinking that I’m late at this point to meet up
with Red (it’s a bar crawl and I didn’t want them going to the second bar
before I’d even arrived at the first one), I decide that I remember it well
enough and trudge on blind, armed only with my memory to do battle with the
dark and windy streets of Prague.
The battle started poorly when Prague dealt an early blow –
I went one stop too far on the metro and wound up on the wrong side of the
river. Undeterred however, I continued though I thought it would be prudent to text
Mira my dilemma. I made my way back to the proper stop and then had to figure
out which exit to take and which direction I needed to go. As I exited the
underground, I did a full circle trying to get my bearings and match what I saw
on google maps with what was before my eyes. I start heading to my left but
quickly realize that is the direction of the river and I had needed to walk
away from the river to reach Old Town Square and promptly turned around. After
this I actually do a pretty good job of remembering where I need to go and make
the right turns. I get within two blocks of the bar before Red texts me and
says they’ll be at Old Town Square in a few minutes to meet their guide and
head over to the Drunken Monkey – clearly, I wasn’t as late as I’d feared.
I decided I wouldn’t push my luck trying to find the bar on
my own and returned to Old Town Square. While I waited for Red and the people
he was with to arrive, I walked around the square a bit. There are several
(three that I saw and remember clearly) churches in Old Town as well as the
Astronomical Clock, which gathers quite a crowd every hour to watch it strike
the hour. I happened to be there for the 10 O’clock chiming but missed the show
as I was a few hundred meters away and didn’t have the angle. I tried to make
my way over there but it wasn’t in time. I suppose that will just be something
on my to do list for another day.
When Red showed up, it only took us a minute to find our
guide, an expat named Freddie. Freddie is from Boston (I think) and before
moving to Prague had attended UNLV. He also lives directly above the bar.
Freddie delivered us safely to the Drunken Monkey at which
point an hour and a half power hour (go figure) had just begun during which
everything was prepaid for with the purchase of a wristband – which also served
as a our ticket in for the rest of the night. Inside of the Drunken Monkey was
an assortment of different people, though I believe my favorite were the Scots
who I unknowingly forced into coming on the pub-crawl. On our way in, the Scots
were standing on the corner of the street of the Drunken Monkey and they were
trying to figure out what to do. One of the larger gentlemen (probably 6’4,
250) looked at me and asked if we were going on the pub-crawl; when I answered
in the affirmative I received a bellowing sigh from him as acquiesced to the
girls in his group’s desire to participate. I would make amends with him later
in the night however when we bonded over Robin Williams and his thoughts on
Golf and the Scots.
The bar had pre-mixed their shots (so as to cut the alcohol
content they contained as they were free shots) combining rum or vodka with
Mango juice. Whatever the case, these shots went down so easily and without
lingering effects that I quickly consumed three of them in my first few minutes
there with another guy on the program by the name of Andy only to return
moments later with Red and Matt and a few of Red’s Colgate friends to take a
few more.
After the shots, we went back to the back room (not as
sketchy as it sounds) where beer pong and flip cup tables were set up and had a
beer. I was sitting at a table with a few people and Freddie when suddenly I
see Freddie produce a small baggie stuffed full with weed and proceed to roll a
spliff as if it’s the most normal thing in the world. I have limited experience
with weed at best having never indulged myself so I cannot say with any
accuracy how much weed he had stuffed in this plastic bag. That being said, I
wouldn’t be surprised if it was under the legal limit of Prague, which has
recently decriminalized just about every drug in small enough quantities (see
here for more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Legality_of_cannabis#Czech_Republic).
Freddie, the generous guy he is, passes his spliff around the table when he is
done. Side bar: I don’t know the proper etiquette for sharing weed, so I could
be way off base here, but it seemed to me that the guys only took one hit
before passing it while the two girls who participated took four or five each.
I just thought it was a humorous juxtaposition and laughed to myself when I
noticed.
Even hour and half power hours have to come to an end at
some point and when that time came, everyone with a wrist band (probably 60 of
us) were herded out the door and down the block to another bar where we were
greeted with a free shot (one of the perks of purchasing the wrist-band was
that at every stop you received a free shot – this feature led to my eventual
introduction to Sambuca at the next stop and who I very much enjoyed meeting).
This wasn’t the best stop on the crawl for sure; the dance floor was undersized
and underused and the bar was a warzone. I stood at the corner of the bar with
three girls (Becca, Hannah and Molly) for twenty minutes trying to order drinks
to no avail. I won’t blame the bartender though because he was running around
trying to meet the orders in front of him and never had a dull moment during
which he could have served us, it just so happened that we didn’t penetrate his
peripheral vision and so were not served. My solution to the dilemma: weave my
way to the center of the bar where I would be seen and order for all of us. This
actually worked incredibly well and only a minute or two after reaching the bar
the bartender asked what I would like to order. The girls wanted to take a
So-Co and lime shot so that’s what I ordered. Unfortunately the bartender
thought he was out of shot glasses so he moved on while we amended our order.
When he moved though he revealed three shot glasses behind him and when he came
back I pointed them out and he happily poured us our drinks.
Drinking to life and good times we had our drink and
retreated to a quieter spot of the bar. We weren’t done though and a few
minutes later we took a shot of whiskey (my first) with Andy. I have a sneaking
suspicion that I was quite inebriated at this point and fortunately we moved on
to another bar shortly thereafter. This next bar was where I had the welcome
shot of Sambuca and the conversation about Robin Williams.
We ended the night in Mecca. Yes, the Drunken Monkey
pub-crawl is also known as the pub-crawl to Mecca, a night club with several
floors, a huge dance floor, and the professional dancers who dance on podiums in
scantily clad outfits for the men to oogle over.
At around three in the morning, I decided I’d had enough and
left. Unfortunately, Mecca is on the other side of the river from my flat so I
had no idea how to get home and I hadn’t yet put the number of the safe cabs in
my phone so I was a bit nervous about getting home as Red was clearly not
prepared to call it an evening. I received a bit of luck however when I met a student
on the NYU program outside by the name of Mike who informed me he lived at 60
Sleska and would happily share a cab with me.
The only real problem with this set-up is that 60 Sleska is
not directly across the street from 61 Sleska. That fact was immediately clear
when I looked opposite Mike’s apartment hoping to find mine and instead found a
park. Who would have thought that a three or four block distance separated
Sleska 60 from 61? I certainly didn’t, and let me tell you, walking around an
unfamiliar neighborhood at three in the morning while pleasantly toasted is a
sobering experience. I made a circuit of the block to try and gather my
bearings. Unable to reach any firm conclusions on my own, and worrying for a
moment that Mike lived on a “different” Sleska street, I consulted some of the
NYU kids still standing outside of their apartment socializing about which
direction they thought my flat would be. One of them conveniently had a map and
after debating for a moment about which way North lay, I started walking. It
turns out that like in America, the addresses have a logical pattern, with
evens on one side of the street and odds on the other. Czechs just don’t have a
strict policy on keeping them in line. So, while one side of the street may be
low sixties, the other may be high eighties (as it turns out is the case with
my block). The disparity can be attributed to the park, which lies on the odd
side; so, while even addresses continue to increase, the odd addresses take a multi-block
hiatus before resuming at the conclusion of the park.
When I finally arrived home, it was nearly an hour after I’d
left the club. Shortly thereafter I fell sound asleep. I slept surprisingly
well and woke up on my own accord four hours later for orientation at the Study
Center. And with no hangover, I was in significantly better shape than many
others – I give my thanks to Jeffrey for teaching me the water bottle and
vitamin trick.
Stephen, nice article and interesting to see a long detailed description of what is going on from the 'tourist' side of view in Prague. From a locals point of view though- the bar crawls are a complete rip of- you pay 20 euros or 500 crowns, for watered down beer and shots worth pennies, before getting herded off to the 5 story club and then dumped there as they know its a good way to get rid of you. So apart from the vitamin water trick I'd be telling people to avoid them :) Oh and your info on the weed is ambiguous I would check out smokinginprague.weebly.com for up to date info :P
ReplyDeleteThanks Mary Jade! The bar crawls certainly have a niche market. They're great for people who just want a planned evening with some friends and see a few parts of town. That said, after a few more months in Prague (this was during one of my first weekends there, if I recall correctly), I couldn't agree with you more. Prague has so many great ways to spend an evening and really Karlovy Lazne is not one of them.
ReplyDeleteNa ZdravĂ!